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To be used with standard drill bits for skis, ie with depth limitation (3.6mm or 4.1mm bit). Use metric hardware to assemble parts (M6). Just change the end parts to choose your brand To use: slide the rear and front slider to align the two same number corresponding to your shoe length. If you have a group of ski buddies, or a team, this is a great group purchase.We don't share your email address with anyone and we never send out any of those cheesy 'message from our partners' emails either. Anyway, snowHeads really is MUCH better when you're logged in - not least because you get to post your own messages complaining about things that annoy you like perhaps this banner which, incidentally, disappears when you log in :-)So, in response to a question earlier, I thought we could benefit from a thread devoted to mounting bindings.I've been fitting bindings for 30 years, first in a ski shop in Zermatt, in the shop mostly with jigs, but sometimes without, since leaving I've always used paper templates.Most shops in resort nowadays have the necessary mounting jigs and a good proportion in the UK as well, but for those who can't access these, or want to DIY I'll put together some resources hereObviously you'll need a template, pretty much all bindings are out there, just Google "xxx binding paper template"Or, if you're lucky, your bindings came with a template in the box.Wildsnow have most of the touring templates here:Binding Freedom also have most of the popular Alpine models here:1/ A reasonable ability to measure, drill and screw things2/ A couple of step drills, 3,6mm x 9mm for skis without a metal reinforcing plate in the binding mount area and 4,1 x 9mm for metal reinforced skis (and I think carbon skis) If mounting junior skis then a 3,5mm x 7mm is required as these are generally shallower underfoot3/ Waterproof wood glue, binding glue or epoxy4/ Binding screw tap for metal reinforced skis6/ Your best #3 Posidrive screwdriver/T20 for Dynafit bindings (never use a bit in a drill, too much torque)Contact Spyderjon at the Piste Office for binding tools:You can get away with a depth collar on an ordinary drill bit, but you must be absolutely sure it doesn't slip for obvious reasons!!!If you're in the slightest bit unsure of your abilities, then (and maybe always) do a trial mount first on a piece of wood to test your work!When using the paper templates, there's normally a scale printed to check the printer scaling is correct, don't miss this step.There's plenty of advice out there on this, not all of it perfect!Naturally any additions/corrections welcomedHave been doing my own mounts for about 10 years now so a few hints below from my experience, adding to aboveGetting the centre line right is vital, measure from the edges not the top sheet, sloping sidewalls can make it rather wonky, I have a little draper analogue caliper that works well.The boot centre mark on a pair of skis is often out, check, measure from the tipAs said above always check the scale on a paper template, I have a selection of old wooden bed slats from an old bunk bed to do test mounts on. If I have not used the template before I always do a test mount, screw the bindings on and put the boot in checking boot centre and forward pressure is ok. For example I have 4 different set ups for Rossi fks. 2 jigs of different ages, 1 plastic sticky one that came with a pair of new bindings and a paper template, they are all slightly different as far as boot centre and forward pressure set up is concerned.Watch for the hole volcanoing when you screw on the bindings, I always countersink the holes very slightly, the proper drill bits do this anyway,I purchased a little screwdriver type torque wrench that does the 4nm, don't over tighten the screwsHope that is. When you register, you get our free weekly(-ish) snow report by email.Z01, Z02 & Z02 Junior Mounting Template (Note: Use the Jr markings for the Z02 Junior Extra Small (XS) and the Small markings for the Z02 Junior Small.) Z01.Multi brand drill template for mounting ski binding.
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